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Ceiling fan/beam mount – where?? Someone must make a ceiling fan mount suitable for a 4x beam, but I can’t goggle one up. HO wants a fan mounted from the center of the 4x beam in the bedroom.
This project demonstrates how ‘going faux’ can sometimes be better than used real solid wood — in this case, how easy installing a ceiling fan through a beam can be.
Our faux products are manufactured using molds taken from natural wood – which are then used to create incredibly realistic copies in high density polyurethane foam. The foam captures every detail of the original material, but is durable and lightweight, can be easily cut, trimmed and drilled, and is hollow in the center.
Driver rainbow 7310 windows 7. Following an industry-leading coloring process, our beams look so realistic that it’s often impossible to tell them from the real thing by looks alone; and at that point choosing whether real or ‘faux’ is best for your design project becomes about affordability, practicality and versatility.
In the case of this project, the homeowners wanted to run a central beam across their room to give some visual framework to the high, apex ceiling. This is what our beams do best – and the homeowners very wisely researched how an actual exposed timber beam might look on a ceiling like this, and realized a single, central beam was the most realistic placement.
But they also wanted a ceiling fan in that spot — and this is where the versatility of faux comes into play.
Because our beams are u-shaped and hollow inside, and easy to cut to size with regular woodworking tools, the homeowners were able to drill a hole through the central beam and attach the molding to the bottom of it, to allow the ceiling fan to pass through the beam.
The important thing to note here is that the ceiling fan only looks like it’s supported by the beam which isn’t load-bearing. It’s actually attached to the structural studs in the ceiling.
Because solid wood beams aren’t hollow, it would be difficult to install a fan like this.
An additional detail was the clever use of our rubber beam straps on this project; which cover up the seams where one length of beam meets the next. They resemble the old iron straps that used to bind solid timber beams, and are another realistic addition that is more practical than the ‘real’ thing.
Although very straightforward, we’re excited to share pictures of this project with you, because they demonstrate the versatility of our product; and how you can achieve things by ‘going faux’ that you couldn’t with the authentic article.
Ceiling beams are probably not what you think. Instead of a single, solid piece of lumber that attaches to the rafters, contemporary beams are three-sided, rectangular boxes that attach to drywalled ceilings. You can't tell that they are hollow. This type of beam is routinely used on ceilings to add beauty and aesthetics. Installing a beam like this requires a ledger board that is used to secure the beam to the ceiling. This type of beam can be placed on the ceiling at any time after the ceiling is finished, or down the road whenever you get the time or money.
Turn the beam upside down. Measure the distance between the two boards between the sides of the beam. Measure the length of the beam.
Cut a 1 1/2-inch-thick piece of fir to the width using the measurement with a table saw. Cut it to length using a miter saw. This is the ledger board.
Run a stud finder along the ceiling and mark each joist or stud that passes under the desired location of the beam. Place the ledger on the ceiling and transfer the stud marks to the ledger. If the joist runs parallel with the beam, center the ledger under the stud or joist and mark the ledger board every 12 inches for pilot holes.
Drill the pilot holes through the ledger at the marks using a 3/16-inch bit and drill/driver. Place the ledger on the ceiling, using an assistant to help you hold it in place. Insert 3 1/2-inch wood screws in the holes and drive them in tight to secure the ledger to the ceiling.
Fit the beam over the ledger using an assistant to help you. The two sides of the beam should fit tight against the ceiling. Shoot 1 1/2-inch pin nails randomly through the sides of the beam to penetrate into the ledger to temporarily secure it to the ledger.
Drill holes through the sides of the ledger every 12 inches. Angle the holes at 30 degrees to penetrate up through the sides of the beam into the ledger.
Insert 3-inch screws into the holes. Use the drill/driver to drive the screws in tight, burying the heads slightly below the surface to finish.
Specializing in hardwood furniture, trim carpentry, cabinets, home improvement and architectural millwork, Wade Shaddy has worked in homebuilding since 1972. Shaddy has also worked as a newspaper reporter and writer, and as a contributing writer for Bicycling Magazine. Shaddy began publishing in various magazines in 1992, and published a novel, “Dark Canyon,” in 2008.
Ceiling fan/beam mount – where?? Someone must make a ceiling fan mount suitable for a 4x beam, but I can’t goggle one up. HO wants a fan mounted from the center of the 4x beam in the bedroom.
This project demonstrates how ‘going faux’ can sometimes be better than used real solid wood — in this case, how easy installing a ceiling fan through a beam can be.
Our faux products are manufactured using molds taken from natural wood – which are then used to create incredibly realistic copies in high density polyurethane foam. The foam captures every detail of the original material, but is durable and lightweight, can be easily cut, trimmed and drilled, and is hollow in the center.
Driver rainbow 7310 windows 7. Following an industry-leading coloring process, our beams look so realistic that it’s often impossible to tell them from the real thing by looks alone; and at that point choosing whether real or ‘faux’ is best for your design project becomes about affordability, practicality and versatility.
In the case of this project, the homeowners wanted to run a central beam across their room to give some visual framework to the high, apex ceiling. This is what our beams do best – and the homeowners very wisely researched how an actual exposed timber beam might look on a ceiling like this, and realized a single, central beam was the most realistic placement.
But they also wanted a ceiling fan in that spot — and this is where the versatility of faux comes into play.
Because our beams are u-shaped and hollow inside, and easy to cut to size with regular woodworking tools, the homeowners were able to drill a hole through the central beam and attach the molding to the bottom of it, to allow the ceiling fan to pass through the beam.
The important thing to note here is that the ceiling fan only looks like it’s supported by the beam which isn’t load-bearing. It’s actually attached to the structural studs in the ceiling.
Because solid wood beams aren’t hollow, it would be difficult to install a fan like this.
An additional detail was the clever use of our rubber beam straps on this project; which cover up the seams where one length of beam meets the next. They resemble the old iron straps that used to bind solid timber beams, and are another realistic addition that is more practical than the ‘real’ thing.
Although very straightforward, we’re excited to share pictures of this project with you, because they demonstrate the versatility of our product; and how you can achieve things by ‘going faux’ that you couldn’t with the authentic article.
Ceiling beams are probably not what you think. Instead of a single, solid piece of lumber that attaches to the rafters, contemporary beams are three-sided, rectangular boxes that attach to drywalled ceilings. You can\'t tell that they are hollow. This type of beam is routinely used on ceilings to add beauty and aesthetics. Installing a beam like this requires a ledger board that is used to secure the beam to the ceiling. This type of beam can be placed on the ceiling at any time after the ceiling is finished, or down the road whenever you get the time or money.
Turn the beam upside down. Measure the distance between the two boards between the sides of the beam. Measure the length of the beam.
Cut a 1 1/2-inch-thick piece of fir to the width using the measurement with a table saw. Cut it to length using a miter saw. This is the ledger board.
Run a stud finder along the ceiling and mark each joist or stud that passes under the desired location of the beam. Place the ledger on the ceiling and transfer the stud marks to the ledger. If the joist runs parallel with the beam, center the ledger under the stud or joist and mark the ledger board every 12 inches for pilot holes.
Drill the pilot holes through the ledger at the marks using a 3/16-inch bit and drill/driver. Place the ledger on the ceiling, using an assistant to help you hold it in place. Insert 3 1/2-inch wood screws in the holes and drive them in tight to secure the ledger to the ceiling.
Fit the beam over the ledger using an assistant to help you. The two sides of the beam should fit tight against the ceiling. Shoot 1 1/2-inch pin nails randomly through the sides of the beam to penetrate into the ledger to temporarily secure it to the ledger.
Drill holes through the sides of the ledger every 12 inches. Angle the holes at 30 degrees to penetrate up through the sides of the beam into the ledger.
Insert 3-inch screws into the holes. Use the drill/driver to drive the screws in tight, burying the heads slightly below the surface to finish.
Specializing in hardwood furniture, trim carpentry, cabinets, home improvement and architectural millwork, Wade Shaddy has worked in homebuilding since 1972. Shaddy has also worked as a newspaper reporter and writer, and as a contributing writer for Bicycling Magazine. Shaddy began publishing in various magazines in 1992, and published a novel, “Dark Canyon,” in 2008.
Ceiling fan/beam mount – where?? Someone must make a ceiling fan mount suitable for a 4x beam, but I can’t goggle one up. HO wants a fan mounted from the center of the 4x beam in the bedroom.
This project demonstrates how ‘going faux’ can sometimes be better than used real solid wood — in this case, how easy installing a ceiling fan through a beam can be.
Our faux products are manufactured using molds taken from natural wood – which are then used to create incredibly realistic copies in high density polyurethane foam. The foam captures every detail of the original material, but is durable and lightweight, can be easily cut, trimmed and drilled, and is hollow in the center.
Driver rainbow 7310 windows 7. Following an industry-leading coloring process, our beams look so realistic that it’s often impossible to tell them from the real thing by looks alone; and at that point choosing whether real or ‘faux’ is best for your design project becomes about affordability, practicality and versatility.
In the case of this project, the homeowners wanted to run a central beam across their room to give some visual framework to the high, apex ceiling. This is what our beams do best – and the homeowners very wisely researched how an actual exposed timber beam might look on a ceiling like this, and realized a single, central beam was the most realistic placement.
But they also wanted a ceiling fan in that spot — and this is where the versatility of faux comes into play.
Because our beams are u-shaped and hollow inside, and easy to cut to size with regular woodworking tools, the homeowners were able to drill a hole through the central beam and attach the molding to the bottom of it, to allow the ceiling fan to pass through the beam.
The important thing to note here is that the ceiling fan only looks like it’s supported by the beam which isn’t load-bearing. It’s actually attached to the structural studs in the ceiling.
Because solid wood beams aren’t hollow, it would be difficult to install a fan like this.
An additional detail was the clever use of our rubber beam straps on this project; which cover up the seams where one length of beam meets the next. They resemble the old iron straps that used to bind solid timber beams, and are another realistic addition that is more practical than the ‘real’ thing.
Although very straightforward, we’re excited to share pictures of this project with you, because they demonstrate the versatility of our product; and how you can achieve things by ‘going faux’ that you couldn’t with the authentic article.
Ceiling beams are probably not what you think. Instead of a single, solid piece of lumber that attaches to the rafters, contemporary beams are three-sided, rectangular boxes that attach to drywalled ceilings. You can\'t tell that they are hollow. This type of beam is routinely used on ceilings to add beauty and aesthetics. Installing a beam like this requires a ledger board that is used to secure the beam to the ceiling. This type of beam can be placed on the ceiling at any time after the ceiling is finished, or down the road whenever you get the time or money.
Turn the beam upside down. Measure the distance between the two boards between the sides of the beam. Measure the length of the beam.
Cut a 1 1/2-inch-thick piece of fir to the width using the measurement with a table saw. Cut it to length using a miter saw. This is the ledger board.
Run a stud finder along the ceiling and mark each joist or stud that passes under the desired location of the beam. Place the ledger on the ceiling and transfer the stud marks to the ledger. If the joist runs parallel with the beam, center the ledger under the stud or joist and mark the ledger board every 12 inches for pilot holes.
Drill the pilot holes through the ledger at the marks using a 3/16-inch bit and drill/driver. Place the ledger on the ceiling, using an assistant to help you hold it in place. Insert 3 1/2-inch wood screws in the holes and drive them in tight to secure the ledger to the ceiling.
Fit the beam over the ledger using an assistant to help you. The two sides of the beam should fit tight against the ceiling. Shoot 1 1/2-inch pin nails randomly through the sides of the beam to penetrate into the ledger to temporarily secure it to the ledger.
Drill holes through the sides of the ledger every 12 inches. Angle the holes at 30 degrees to penetrate up through the sides of the beam into the ledger.
Insert 3-inch screws into the holes. Use the drill/driver to drive the screws in tight, burying the heads slightly below the surface to finish.
Specializing in hardwood furniture, trim carpentry, cabinets, home improvement and architectural millwork, Wade Shaddy has worked in homebuilding since 1972. Shaddy has also worked as a newspaper reporter and writer, and as a contributing writer for Bicycling Magazine. Shaddy began publishing in various magazines in 1992, and published a novel, “Dark Canyon,” in 2008.